These techniques of course also work with anything else where you need to do batch painting of small(-ish) items. Though in this guide I will focus on the painting of Warhammer (the pictures come from my fire-coloured Dark Elf army).
You can find my previous guide, where I explained how I make the box in which I spray my armies, here: Warhammer (and other figurine painting hobbies) tips for base painting.
I spray my armies unassembled, I leave the arms, shields and bases off. This is because painting around a corner is hard and never turns out pretty. This posed a problem as I was painting as I now had a whole bunch of bits all over my desk.
In this post I will show how I deal with painting and then assembling the figurines. I’ll also show how I put together the actual regiments so that they will always fit perfectly.
Painting in bits
(Some of the figures already have white paint in the earlier pictures, that is because I stripped the paint from them from an earlier attempt)
– blu-tack/sticky tac (there won’t be any paint on this, so you can use it for other purposes later again, use the good stuff, the one that doesn’t leave gross residue behind)
– paint (this is all done with the old range of paint, which had paints and inks and didn’t have all the different types of paint. This is why I sometimes had to do multiple layers before I got things right)
– brushes (I use a combination of Games Workshop ones and craft stores ones, I usually go to the craft store for the smaller brushes since Games Workshop brushes are too large for me)
I sprayed these figurines with the legs, the chest and the heads assembled, and the arms separate. I also painted the bottom part before I started taking these pictures.
I put sticky tack on the table and then put the bodies of the figurines in the back and the arms in the front, this way I can work my way through them all while also keeping them separate so I put the right arms on the right body.
I start with the background of the models. Which in this case was the cloth behind the chainmail (see above) and the skin on the face and hands (below). I’ve also drybrushed the chainmail on the legs.
[Hands were two layers of white on top of the black spray coat and the faces are one layer of white, one layer of yellow and a layer of dark orange (self mixed). The cloth behind the chainmail is of a later range of paint and my first contact with base paints and is a dark red and the chainmail itself is drybrushed with mithril silver.]
I’m gonna list the rest of the pictures with just some notes on what I did, but you get the idea. Because you can use and re-use the sticky tack, you can pick up the parts and push them back in the tack after painting and they stick. No worries about getting paint on the table and no worries about getting weird looking parts on the figurines where the paint bumped against the table when it’s not dry yet.
This way you can make your way down the list from right to left (or left to right, depending on what you like) and not having to worry about waiting for things to dry. I usually starts in the top left and make my way down to the bottom right. This way, by the time I’m done in the bottom right, the top left is dry and ready for the next part of the painting. This makes batch painting easier and faster.
[I painted the cloth under the chainmail red (2 coats) and also did put ink (thinned) on the faces and the hands. Then I added boltgun metal (darker) and mithril silver (lighter) to the helmets, chest pieces and arms (some of them, not all the arms and chests are finished).]
[All chest and arm pieces are finished and I put two layers of brown on the belts.]
[After this I put an extra layer of black on all the pieces that need to be black and where there might have accidentally gotten some paint, like the feet, some of the chests and parts of the arms. I didn’t take a picture of this step though.]
Assembling the regiment
One of the big upsides of working like this is that I can now put together the regiments in a way that I can be sure will fit together when assembled on the field.
Here is a pic of the lord that I had already made before and who is already attached to his base and the other bases of the regiment, which are all stuck together with sticky tack.
Same pic, from the top
Some with arms and some without arms. I first model the figurines with some sticky tack into the position I want and if that works I glue them together for real.
All finished, with a second regiment on the left.
One good idea I had was that I paint numbers on the bases of the figurines so I know where they go. On the right is regiment A and is numbered A I-1, A I-2, etc. to 5 and A II-1, A II-2, etc. to 5. This way I don’t need to worry about mixing them up when I set up my army. The army on the left is called regiment B and has B I-1 to B II-5 on the bottom.
Pics of the full army
I’m by far not finished with this, and as you could sort of see in the other post, I’ve started a new army already (I’m painting the Dark Vengence 40K box). But I love this army, even when the harpies keep losing their wings (they are still the old metallic models from 7 years ago) and painting just a regiment takes me 8+ hours.
Two sets of musician, standard carrier and lords for 2 sets of spearmen, one regiment of crossbow men and some harpies in the background
Cold ones in the foreground, old Cauldron of Blood and Witch Elves (all metallic) in the background
Crossbowmen in the front, harpies in the back. Here you can see the harpies better
Better picture of the Cauldron of Blood
I tried looking for better pictures of the Cold Ones but can’t seem to find them, and they’re somewhere in a box, in a smaller box, with all the other ones. I haven’t unpacked all my stuff yet, so sadly enough I can’t just take a picture of them.
I hope this post can help some people who are trying to figure out how they can best paint Warhammer or other figurines in batches. This way it is quick without any problems with smudging.
I hope you enjoyed it and take it from me, fire colours are not a good idea…